Merlot -- The Comeback Grape I Can’t Get Enough Of
July 9, 2025
I’ll be the first to admit: I fell for Cabernet Sauvignon early and I fell hard. Growing up in Chile, where Cab remains a star player, I was bound to catch the bug. Over the years, I’ve been fascinated by how this grape shows up in different corners of the world—each with its own spin on what “Cabernet” should taste like. If you’re ready to join me on a journey from Bordeaux to Australia and beyond, exploring why Cab remains a giant in the wine world, pour yourself a glass and settle in.
Modern DNA research at UC Davis in the late 20th century confirmed that Cabernet Sauvignon is a cross between Cabernet Franc (a red variety) and Sauvignon Blanc (a white). Far from mere speculation, studies show this crossing occurred in Bordeaux in the early 1600s. The grape’s thick skins and late-ripening habit were perfectly suited to Bordeaux’s gravelly soils and maritime climate, so by the 18th and 19th centuries, all châteauxs in the region were giving Cabernet Sauvignon a prime role in their blends. Eventually, these Bordeaux wines set the global standard for quality, showcasing Cab’s remarkable potential.
It’s sometimes called “the king of red grapes,” in part because throughout most of the 20th century, it was the most widely planted premium red wine grape on Earth. Interestingly, it was surpassed by Merlot in the 1990s, but reclaimed the top spot by 2015. That back-and-forth doesn’t diminish its iconic status, though—it’s still the first variety many people learn to love when they dive into red wine.
I grew up around Chilean wine culture, so it’s no surprise that Cabernet Sauvignon grabbed my attention early on. The grape was introduced to Chile by the French agronomist Michel Aimé Pouillot in the early 19th century and was first planted in the Valle de Maule. Chile began producing its first commercial wines from Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1860s, which laid the groundwork for the country’s global reputation in red wine.
Chile’s geography, narrow and bordered by the Andes on one side and the Pacific on the other, means growers can tap into everything from coastal fogs to high-altitude foothills. Some areas, especially the warmer, lower-lying zones, yield ripe, fruit-driven Cabernet with a rich black-cherry core. In cooler or higher spots, the wines often show more structure, lively acidity, and a subtle herbal streak, reminiscent of Bordeaux. I personally love how Chile manages to bridge Old and New World styles, giving you both robust fruit and that hint of savory green pepper or tobacco.
Bordeaux, specifically the Left Bank of the Gironde estuary, is where Cabernet Sauvignon proved its worth centuries ago. Gravelly soils in regions like the Médoc provide excellent drainage, forcing the vines to root deeper. The maritime climate can be unpredictable—some years are too cool for full ripening, but in good vintages, you get wines that can age for decades. Cabernet here typically shows dark fruit wrapped in firm tannins, with hallmark notes of cedar, graphite, and a subtle earthiness that evolves over time. It’s no wonder many wine regions measure themselves against Bordeaux; Cabernet gained legendary status right here.
Cabernet-dominant wines from Bordeaux transform beautifully with age. Pop the cork too soon, and you might find it aggressive or, for many, too bold. Wait a decade or two, and you’ll discover a refined, layered wine with tobacco, leather, and a haunting depth. That’s not to say I don’t appreciate young Cab blends from Bordeaux—they just highlight a bolder, more structured side of the grape, and some folks actually prefer that style.
It’s also worth noting that pure Cabernet bottlings are quite rare in this region. Bordeaux is largely about blending, relying not only on Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot but sometimes including Malbec as well (though it’s less common nowadays). Even so, Cabernet remains the backbone that helped Bordeaux earn its reputation for age-worthy red blends—and it continues to set the benchmark for complexity and longevity.
Napa Cab. You know exactly what you’re getting into before you even take that first sip: big, rich, plush. Warm, sunny days ripen the grapes to intense, concentrated fruit flavors (blackcurrant, blackberry, plum) and what I refer as "cakey" dense chocolate. And the texture… the best ones have this thickness, like when you cut into a molten chocolate cake and that warm, silky rich center just pours out. In Napa the cooler nights, with fog rolling in from the Pacific or dropping temps in the hills, keep things in check so the wine doesn’t turn into syrup or end up overly alcohol-forward.
But Napa Cab isn’t just one thing. You’ve got the big, structured mountain wines from places like Howell Mountain or Mount Veeder, where the tannins are a little more serious and the flavors lean darker. Then you’ve got spots like Rutherford and Oakville, where things get rounder and a bit more classic: black fruit, sweet tobacco, a little bit of that dusty earthiness everyone talks about. And if you go cooler (like Coombsville) you’ll find more freshness, some floral lift, a mineral edge. It’s all Cab, but it’s speaking with different accents depending on where it’s grown.
But here’s the part I struggle with: the prices. Napa has become ground zero for “California cult” Cabernet, with certain labels fetching thousands of dollars a bottle. Don’t get me wrong, many of these wines are fantastic, but for me, the value proposition starts to get blurry. If I’m spending $300 or more, I want the wine to feel like it’s worth every cent...not just because it’s a trophy bottle or has the right name on the label. Given how many world-class Cabernets are being made elsewhere (in California and beyond), I usually find myself chasing producers who offer the quality without the absurd price tag. I’m not hunting for “cheap,” but if I’m going to open a big bottle, I want the satisfaction of knowing I’ve found something that punches at or above its price, not something that leaves me wondering how much of what I just paid for was branding.
Washington State might not leap to mind when you think of Cabernet, but Columbia Valley earns a spot on any Cab-lover’s map. Sheltered by the Cascade Mountains, the region enjoys a dry, warm summer, yet nights can cool down dramatically, which by now you might be seeing the pattern: it's that coolness that helps preserve acidity. For me, that means Columbia Valley Cab often balances rich dark fruit with enough acidity to keep everything lively.
I’ve tasted Washington Cabernets that offer a hint of mint or eucalyptus along with a dusty or mineral finish. It’s almost as if each vineyard has its own secret spice. This style can remind me of a midpoint between Old and New World—neither as lean as a young Bordeaux nor as flamboyantly ripe as some California wines, striking a beautiful harmony I keep coming back to.
Australia’s reputation may be built on Shiraz, but Cabernet Sauvignon has carved out its own space, especially in two standout regions: Coonawarra and Margaret River.
Coonawarra is one of the most distinctive Cabernet terroirs in the world, thanks to its famous terra rossa soil—a bright red, iron-rich topsoil sitting over porous limestone. This soil not only provides excellent drainage, forcing the vines to work harder and develop concentrated flavors, but also contributes to the purity and precision of the fruit. Combine that with the region’s relatively cool climate, and you get Cabernets with bold blackcurrant and cassis flavors, firm tannins, and a recognizable streak of mint or eucalyptus. That aromatic note isn’t some random quirk; it’s tied to the native vegetation and cooling breezes that flow across the vineyards, leaving a clear imprint on the wines.
Head over to Margaret River on the western coast, and you’ll find a completely different Cabernet personality. Here, a strong maritime influence keeps temperatures moderate, extending the growing season and allowing slower, more even ripening. The result is Cabernets with more elegance and finesse—still structured, but less muscular than their Coonawarra cousins. The flavors lean a bit more toward red and black fruit, with layers of bay leaf, dried herbs, and a touch of graphite, making them feel almost like a modern, sunnier take on Bordeaux.
What I love about Australian Cabernet is how confidently it expresses both power and restraint, depending on where it’s grown. Coonawarra shows the wilder, more intense side of the grape, while Margaret River offers a polished, food-friendly expression that can stand proudly alongside the world’s great Cabernets. It’s another reminder that Cabernet Sauvignon is a shape-shifter, fully capable of adjusting to both the soil and the winemaker’s vision while still staying true to itself.
Italy’s deep-rooted wine culture will always revolve around its native grapes (Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Aglianico) but Cabernet Sauvignon has managed to carve out an identity of its own, particularly along the Tuscan coast. The story of how that happened is one of my favorite examples of how tradition and innovation can clash — and ultimately create something iconic.
Cabernet Sauvignon actually arrived in Tuscany long before the Super Tuscan era. It was planted at Tenuta San Guido in Bolgheri as early as 1944, long before anyone coined the term “Super Tuscan.” But it wasn’t until the 1970s that Cabernet truly made its mark, when Sassicaia’s 1968 vintage, first commercially released in 1971, turned the Italian wine world on its head. At the time, Italy’s rigid classification system didn’t allow for wines made from non-native grapes to carry any prestigious designation, so these groundbreaking Cab-based wines were forced to wear the humble “vino da tavola” label, essentially putting them on par, legally speaking, with the most basic table wines. It was a laughably inadequate classification for wines that would go on to become some of Italy’s most coveted and influential bottles.
It wasn’t until the 1990s that Italy’s wine authorities finally caught up with reality. In 1992, the IGT Toscana designation was created specifically to give these innovative wines some level of official recognition. Two years later, Bolgheri was granted its own DOC, cementing its status as the birthplace of the Super Tuscan movement. Even today, Bolgheri remains at the heart of Tuscany’s Cabernet story — it’s where the grape found its natural second home, thriving in the region’s iron-rich soils, which offer excellent drainage and help produce wines with character, power and consistency.
Tuscan Cabernet fits perfectly into the region’s identity even though it’s an outsider grape. The warm, sunny climate along the coast gives the wines plenty of ripeness but there’s always a streak of acidity that keeps them fresh, something you don’t always find in warmer-climate Cabs. That acidity, paired with the region’s signature herbal notes (rosemary, bay leaf, dried thyme) and a touch of dusty earth, gives Tuscan Cabs a personality that’s distinctly Italian. That particular character, becomes even more pronounced with as the wines age. In their youth, they’re bold and fruit-forward. But give them time, and they soften into something more nuanced, with the fruit stepping back to let those savory, earthy and herbal layers come forward.
Whether blended with Sangiovese or on its own, Cabernet in Tuscany proves just how adaptable this grape is — not just to climate and soil, but to a whole culture’s evolving sense of what great wine can be.
I’ve always thought South Africa, and Stellenbosch in particular, remains one of the most underrated wine regions in the world — and that’s especially true when it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon. The conditions here are incredibly well-suited to the grape. Stellenbosch enjoys a Mediterranean climate with warm, dry summers and cooler winters, but what really makes a difference are the ocean breezes from False Bay, which moderate the heat and extend the growing season. This slow, steady ripening allows Cabernet to develop both ripe fruit flavors and firm structure without becoming overly heavy or flabby.
The soils in Stellenbosch are equally diverse and part of what gives its Cabernets their distinct character. You’ll find decomposed granite, shale, and sandstone, each contributing something different: granite tends to add finesse and minerality, shale brings depth and darker tones, and sandstone can lend a softer, more approachable texture. Put it all together, and you get wines with rich blackcurrant and plum flavors, supported by firm tannins and a savory edge — often with notes of cedar, pencil shavings, and a touch of smoke or graphite that immediately makes me think of Left Bank Bordeaux.
At the same time, those warm South African summers give the wines a certain ripeness and generosity of fruit that reminds me of California Cabernet, though never as overtly plush or sweet. The balance is what makes Stellenbosch Cab so good: the structure and elegance of Bordeaux, with just enough sun-baked fruit and richness to make it extra-drinkable and smooth. And while the best examples age beautifully, they’re often drinkable sooner than you’d expect.
So yes, if you want the marriage between Bordeaux and California at prices that, compared to Bordeaux or California, feel almost too good to be true, you should be buying more South African cabs. For me, it’s one of the best-kept secrets in the wine world.
No conversation about Cabernet Sauvignon’s global ascendancy is complete without mentioning the 1976 Judgment of Paris. This blind tasting pitted top French wines against California newcomers. Much to everyone’s shock, the 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Estate Cabernet Sauvignon earned the highest red wine score, beating out famous Bordeaux châteaux and forever rewriting the wine world’s assumptions.
For me, that event was pivotal because it showed that no region has a lock on greatness. It opened the door for other areas—Chile, Australia, South Africa—to prove themselves on the global stage. Without that watershed moment, I wonder if Cab would’ve become quite so universal, quite so fast.
Cabernet Sauvignon can shine solo, but it also excels in blends, whether it’s the classic Bordeaux template (with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec) or inventive New World marriages with grapes like Syrah or Carménère.
• Cab adds tannin, structure, and deep color—the backbone of the wine.
• Other grapes provide softness, aromatic lift, or extra fruit to balance Cab’s inherent firmness.
• Different regions pick different partners—France sticks to the Bordeaux family, while places like California or Chile may experiment with a broader range.
I’ve had Cab-based blends that truly wowed me with their depth and harmony, each supporting grape adding a layer without overshadowing Cab’s core presence. It’s the wine-world equivalent of a great ensemble cast.
Adaptability: Grown in all sorts of climates but shows off the terroir of wherever it’s grown, letting you taste the story of the region.
Familiarity: Even beginners recognize Cabernet Sauvignon, so it’s a comfortable pick.
Food Pairing: Those tannins and acidity love to cozy up to everything from steak to roasted veggie dishes.
Aging Potential: A top-notch Cab can rest for years, evolving into something layered, refined and profound.
I’m not always the most patient drinker, but storing a well-made Cabernet for a few years can be transformative. The fruit-driven burst of a young Cab can mellow into dried fruit notes, tobacco hints, or a savory complexity that wasn’t apparent when it was fresh off the bottling line. Keep it around 55°F in a stable environment, avoid vibrations, and let it sleep. When you finally uncork it, give the wine a moment to breathe and you’ll see how time can refine its edges into a velvety finish.
From its verified origins in early-1600s Bordeaux to the narrow reaches of Chile, from California’s sunlit valleys to Australia’s terra rossa, Cabernet Sauvignon has shown it can adapt and flourish almost anywhere. Though it briefly lost its crown as the most planted premium red grape to Merlot in the 1990s, it reclaimed the top spot by 2015, a testament to its enduring popularity.
If you’re craving a deeper dive into how one grape can wear so many faces, open a few bottles of Cab from various regions and taste them side by side. Compare a Left Bank Bordeaux with a robust Chilean red, or put a Washington Cab up against a Tuscan one. You’ll see just how flexible this variety can be and why it remains one of my favorites.
If you’re eager to learn more about Cabernet Sauvignon or any other wine varietal, check out Wine Pro, your personal AI Sommelier. It’s not only a convenient tool for quick tasting notes and recommendations, but also a deep well of knowledge about grapes, regions, and pairings. Whether you’re just starting your wine journey or you’ve been sipping for years, Wine Pro is there to guide you, answer your questions, and help you appreciate the infinite nuances in every bottle you open.
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